It’s Sunday morning and I am looking at an old cookbook of steak recipes. Under “Libations”, they suggest vodka submerged in ice, with a cream cheese dollop, garnished with celery salt. Later in the book, they offer a hundred recipes, all with champagne vinegar. Why? Champagne Vinegar: the happiest sound I know, along with the most melancholy. Why put these two together? Then again, Why, when we see a dotted line, do we ache so to sign it?